ESCOLTA, A REMINDER OF OLD MANILA'S BEAUTY

I have been meaning to visit Escolta to see the old buildings there in the flesh. In my whole existence of residing in Manila, it was a shame that I haven't explored this place -- I am literally one jeepney ride away! It was just recently that I have been so passionate to know more about the surviving old structures and buildings in the country, that I have pulled my lazy self out of the comfort of my bed to see them for myself. I was looking forward to fly back to Cebu to visit Carcar, but wasn't so lucky to book a flight from the past seat sales, so I'd explore my (most) beloved city for now. I didn't realize there is so much to see here that I have been taking for granted all this time!

Escolta Street (or Calle Escolta) is very historic on its own -- it is one of the oldest streets in Manila and its name was derived from the Spanish word escoltar, which means "to escort." You can look up for the entire history of this street in Wikipedia, because I am too lazy to type (and reword) it here lol. Anyway, I first heard of its (hi)story through some features in our then-black and white television when I was younger and only knew then that it used to be a shopping district before the posh shopping malls we have today. I remember old folks saying that during its heyday, you're considered to be sosyal if you shop or bought your clothes in Escolta. It was later on that I also knew about the historic structures here, some of them are still in operation, but some, unfortunately, have fallen into disrepair.

We did our walking tour around 4pm on a Sunday. I do recommend for you to do the same thing as it's the most perfect time and day to go around Escolta -- it's not that very humid and not much people are outside. I didn't do a lot of prior research, so I failed to take a snap of a few more old buildings.

Our first stop is the Capitol Theater.

This is an art deco theater built during the 1930s and designed by our National Artist, Juan Nakpil. It is one of the perfect representations of how modernization took a toll on heritage structures -- it closed its doors due to the construction of the Light Rail Transit (LRT 1) and the change in preference of theater-goers for cinemas inside air-conditioned malls.

Just a few steps forward and you'd see the Calvo Building.

Also built in the 1930s, this structure was built using the beaux-arts architectural style and was designed by one of Manila's renowned architect, Fernando H. Ocampo.

Walk towards the Sta. Cruz direction and you will see the Regina and First United Buildings side by side.

A neoclassical beaux-arts and art deco style buildings respectively, these were both designed by Andres Luna de San Pedro (son of Juan Luna), with Fernando H. Ocampo as a collaborator for the former. Both of these are still being used commercially, with the latter housing Fred's Revolucion and where the Saturday Market is being held.

Towering in the midst of ever-busy Plaza Lacson is the Don Roman Santos Building.

The most challenging to take a snap of -- if you're familiar how chaotic Plaza Lacson is, you'd know why. This is yet another neoclassical building built in 1894 and expanded in 1957.

And last, but definitely not the least is my absolute favorite, the El Hogar Filipino Building.

Unlike the other buildings, this is by far the most challenging to locate. We had to walk on an alley beside Calvo Building, pass by a group of kids enjoying their "bath" at the Pasig River (no offense, but if you are familiar how "clean" this river is and what these kids' business is, you also know why it's kind of scary) and a tunnel under the bridge, which is reminiscent of horror stories where the characters in movies get killed (yikes!). Anyway, we're able to pass though these "obstacles" successfully and got out of there with our limbs still intact and complete lol. But, I opted to just take a few snaps for under five minutes and call a pedicab on the way back to our hotel as I felt so uneasy. What a scaredycat for someone who used to live in Tondo haha!

And that's it for my short walking tour in Escolta. I hope to find some time to explore the majestic Intramuros next. :)

Jovel | JUSTJVL

A Trip to the 18th Century Philippines at Las Casas Filipinas De Acuzar

If there's one thing that really fascinates me, it's a well-preserved heritage house. Imagine the history behind it; how the once affluent family lived their lives, the events that occurred in this place, which surprisingly, may sometimes involve our country's national heroes and how the walls, if could speak, tell you the beautiful stories of the past. Luckily, if you have the same desire as myself to experience being transported to the 18th century, there is a place up north that could fulfill this.

Las Casas Filipinas De Acuzar is a 400-hectare land located in Bagac, Bataan that serves as a residence of carefully reconstructed heritage houses from different parts of the Philippines. You may find different activities to enjoy on their website, but for us, we came there to enjoy the beautiful scenery and know about the history of each casa. Let me share these with you.

Casa Binondo

One of the grandest casas in Las Casas Filipinas De Acuzar; this was not included on the walking tour, but our guide mentioned that this house was relocated from its original location in San Nicolas, Binondo, Manila, hence, the name. This has gone through a lot of changes through time, once leased out to Instituto de Manila, then eventually abandoned and taken over my informal settlers. Unfortunately, the floral architectural designs made of pure gold were destroyed by informal settlers through installing clotheslines in it. You may opt to stay here, where all the house is yours for a whopping Php150,000 a night, with complete amenities and Hermès toiletries. I'll pass! :-)

EL 82

One of the buildings now being used for accommodations, this was once an establishment for various art supplies shops relocated from Manila.

Casa Mexico

Originally from Mexico, Pampanga, this casa is now used to receive all the guests of the resort.

Hotel de Oriente

Directly translates to East Hotel or Hotel of the East, it's another establishment that was relocated from Binondo, Manila. It was a first class hotel built by Don Manuel Perez Marqueti in 1889.

An old photo of Hotel de Oriente

Here are some other photos I took around the resort, enjoy! :)

A view in the morning and a casa that looks straight out of the Harry Potter movie. 

A short photo walk before sunrise.

Hotel De Oriente from a different angle; road made of cobblestones and tramway.

Jovel | JUSTJVL

STEP BACK IN TIME AT TAAL HERITAGE TOWN: PARADORES DEL CASTILLO AND THE ANCESTRAL HOUSES

I am not so much of a history buff, but is just simply fascinated with ancestral houses. It's got this mysterious and nostalgic feel to it, that everytime I step inside one, it seems like I once lived there. It may be because of my love for all things vintage and neoclassical architectures, that I always crave to discover places where the once affluent people lived and curious to know the history behind it.

Taal is tagged as the "Vigan of the South" due to the historic old churches and heritage houses that could be found here too. Once you have passed the town's welcome arch, you will be greeted by the old houses that are still occupied by the locals. Most of which are made of wood and the windows made of capiz shells are still intact. It is really reminiscent of Vigan, but a bit more laid-back.

*Unfortunately, I wasn't able to take any pictures of the Taal Town, but enjoy the snaps of the places we visisted. :) 

Where we stayed

Originally, we're just planning to have a short vacation somewhere in the south, but ended up staying overnight at the lovely Paradores del Castillo. I just came across this property when I was browsing for hotels to stay in Batangas. This two-storey Bed and Breakfast Hotel, built in the early 1900's, is located at Calle Dr. H. Del Castillo and according to their website, this was originally a large home of the family of Dr. Hermenegildo “Didong” del Castillo and his wife Leonor Inumerable Sanchez. I believe that the original structure of the house was kept, which is a mixture of Spanish and Filipino styles. This is also few steps away from ancestral houses that you could pay a visit to, so this is very perfect for the not-so-adventurous people like us.

How to get there: VIA COMMUTE: From Buendia, we took a JAM Liner bus going to Lemery and asked to be dropped off at Mahabang Ludlod (Shell Gas Station is the landmark), then rode a tricycle going to Paradores del Castillo. 

The back of the hotel.

Our very comfy bed.

Even the faucet and shower have a vintage touch to it.

Upon arrival, we were given welcome drinks by the staff, our room key, itinerary and a map of the Taal Town. I was actually not expecting that there were a lot of heritage houses around the area, and are close to one another. We just freshened up, left our things in the room, then proceeded to do our own walking tour. After visiting a few houses, we had our early dinner at Don Juan BBQ Boodle House, then went back to our hotel to rest for the night.

Stairwell going to the garden –  my favorite place in the hotel as it has a sight of the Taal Town. This also leads to the hotel's patio (topmost photo).

Vintage sala set at the second floor. Unfortunately, you cannot bring or eat your food here due to sanitary reasons. 

Vintage rocking chairs located at one of rooms on the second floor.

HERITAGE HOUSES

FIRST STOP: Casa Villavicencio (Casa V)

Probably one of the grandest houses in Taal Town – a guided tour is provided here for only Php100, which starts with a 10-minute video narrating the life of Doña Gliceria Marella and is also inclusive of snacks.

According to the tour guide, Andres Bonifacio frequented this place as this house was used as a secret meeting site for revolutionary leaders.

Left: Utensils at the dining table, I was not able to ask the tour guide if these are made of gold (they look like one!).
Right: Old plantsang de uling used as a door stopper.

We did not get an eerie feeling in this house at all. :)

The kitchen area. The tour guide mentioned this was already restored; the old kitchen is an open area, but they followed the original arrangement.

The parents' room.

What I thought would be a perfect / dramatic angle. :)

SECOND STOP: Galleria Taal

An unassuming ancestral house containing Manny Inumerable's impressive collection of vintage cameras. From accordion style cameras, TLRs, and even Leica's – you name it, they probably have it.

Left: One of the most expensive cameras ever sold by Nikon – it is made of gold and lizard skin.
Right: An old accordion style camera.

One of the most expensive camera brands in the world: LEICA. It was actually the first time we've heard of this brand and apparently, they also have the best lenses.

THIRD STOP: Agoncillo-Mariño House

The former house of Marcela and Felipe Agoncillo, the principal seamtress of the original Philippine flag and First Filipino Diplomat respectively. This house is already under the administration of the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP), with the purpose of memorializing the contribution of the couple to our country's history.

 A bronze statue of Marcela Agoncillo by Florante Caedo. Unfortunately, this is the only picture I took of this house as there isn't much to see inside. The second floor is still under renovation when we got there.

There are a lot more houses that we're unable to visit as they were closed at the time we went to Taal. A few on my to-vist list are the Villavicencio Wedding House, Villa Tortuga and Agoncillo Mansion. I am planning to go back to Taal sometime this year, hopefully, the weather still permits, so we'd be able to also peep into the lives of the people who once occupied these beautiful homes.

Jovel | JUSTJVL